Vicenzaoro celebrates 70 years. Europe's leading international event for the gold and jewellery sector boasts a tradition that is deeply rooted in the Vicenza production district, one of the excellences of Made in Italy.
The first gold and jewellery trade fair to be held in Vicenza dates back to 1954. Since then, over the course of seven decades, Vicenzaoro has been able to build a heritage of relationships, skills and values that have made it the reference platform for the entire global industry today.
A living legacy that draws on history to celebrate the path it has travelled and that becomes the innovative thrust of any future development.
Less than ten years after the birth of the first "Campionaria Generale", in September 1954 the first National Gold and Silver Exhibition of Vicenza opens its doors. The exhibition, which is the seed from which the modern Vicenzaoro event flourished, finds its home in the romantic Salvi Gardens in the 1950s, a stone's throw from Piazza Castello, in the setting provided by the tranquil waters of the Seriola, the tree-shaded gravel paths and by the Palladian Valmarana Loggia and the seventeenth-century Longhena Loggia.
Focus
Sofia Loren and Anna Magnani play key roles in strengthening the connection between the silver screen and the world of luxury by wearing Bulgari creations, particularly “The Serpenti collection”, which becomes emblematic of the brand and an expression of boldness and innovation.
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THE
60
s
THE DEBATE ON THE NEW HEADQUARTERS
The Sixties are years of debate: the National Goldsmithing Exhibition grows, so much so that it now takes on an international dimension. On the streets, in the city council and, even more so, in the meetings of the Fair Authority, the fate of the event is at the forefront: "The validity of the Fair in the current location of Giardino Salvi has been discussed" is the most popular headline in the Venetian newspapers of the 1960. For the entire decade the park, which is proposed as a natural continuity of Viale Palladio, remains the venue of the Vicenza event, amidst hypotheses of moving location and dates.
Focus
Jewellery reflectes the eclectic aesthetic of the time. Designers introduce color through the study of enamels, drawing inspiration from nature and experimenting the fusion between technology and tradition. David Webb launches the "Big, Bold & Beautiful" jewellery, Jean Schlumberger creates a poetic nature for Tiffany through limited editions and Hollywood stars like Elizabeth Taylor wear chokers. Among the most iconic collections is Bulgari's "Monete" collection.
The time is ripe for a first, major change that catapults the Fair into a more international dimension. The Fair at the Salvi Gardens is now in its final stages. The goldsmithing exhibition (January) and the ceramics exhibition (February) bid farewell in 1971: a new, modern space, in the shape of an Aztec pyramid, is ready. No longer in the historic center, but in the western area of Vicenza, where the first goldsmithing exhibition of the post-Salvi Gardens era inaugurates on September 5th, 1971.
Focus
In the world of jewellery a minimal and fluid design develops, represented by Elsa Peretti's iconic "Bone" bangle for Tiffany. Italian chains become cult objects, with Pomellato gaining popularity for their grumette chains. Cartier launches the "Love bangle," blending industrial design with precious elegance.
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THE
80
s
THE BIRTH OF THE THREE FAIRS
The beginning of the Eighties coincides with a particularly difficult moment: gold is skyrocketing, it is the "forbidden noble" on display. The entire precious metals sector is thrown into disarray and there is a strong crisis. Despite this, the Fair grows and expands. In the September 1980 edition, Carlo Bernini, president of the Veneto region, complimented the self-financing aimed at expanding the exhibition area up to 10,000 square meters, spread over three floors, with connected systems and services, with a cost of 2.3 billion million.
Focus
This period mark the birth of "Made in Italy" brand, solidifying Italy as a reference point in the world of fashion and luxury. Marina B presents her gold chokers, enamel, and cabochon-cut gemstones and Karl Lagerfeld introduces the opulence of bijoux for Coco Chanel, creating an emblematic trend.
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Tiffany Co Paloma Picasso LP
THE
90
s
RECESSION DOES NOT SCARE THE FAIR
It is a profoundly changed and evolving world that is rapidly approaching the new Millennium. The Berlin Wall has just fallen, the Soviet bloc is crumbling. In Italy the decade opens with the Mani Pulite. The economy must deal with the move towards the single currency, which in the second half of the decade is starting to make itself felt and is at the center of a long preparation, even in the pavilions of the fair. The three gold fairs immediately mark a countertrend, growing, with new important structures, and consequently in numbers, both of exhibitors and visitors from all over the world, who see the Vicenza events in January, June and September as a moment of unmissable business.
Focus
In the world of jewellery, Hoops become a must-have of the decade representing a ready-to-wear, democratic, lightweight, and versatile jewellery piece. Designer Shaun Lean collaborates with Alexander McQueen, while Stephen Webster introduces the first "ear-climbers."
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THE
2000
s
A DECADE FOR STRONG HEARTS
In the 2000s, society, the market and even the structure of Vicenza companies change, paying a heavy price to the crisis. The new strong euro compared to the dollar, the sharply rising price of gold, the tax duties towards the US market, but also the emergence of new consumption styles, are putting the sector and the tradeshow to the test. Travel, computers and mobile phones are on the wish list of consumers, especially young people, which undermine or replace jewellery even on important occasions. In addition to this, competition from "easy" productions is growing, especially from the East. The many initiatives that look at new structures, alliances and an increasingly marked internationalization, especially towards the East, fit into this context.
Focus
In the fashion industry, the 2000s see the popularity of global brands and the rise of "LOGOMANIA." Simultaneously, "fast fashion" becomes a trend with lines that blend nostalgia and innovation. The world of jewellery reflects the taste of fashion, with major brands beginning to offer "democratic" collections. Examples include Tiffany's "Tag Heart" and Bulgari's "B.Zero,"
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Lady Gaga By Frazer Harryson - Getty Images
Paris Hilton Courtesy By Paris Hilton
Rihanna At The 2006 BMI Urban Awards
THE
2010-20
s
ITALIAN EXHIBITION GROUP IS BORN
The 13 years leading up to the 70th anniversary are perhaps those that change the most not only Vicenzaoro, but the Vicenza Fair itself. These are the years of the merger with Rimini Fiera and the birth of Italian Exhibition Group, but also years of strategic agreements that lead to the redesign of the map and calendar of trade fairs. In an increasingly globalized world, the outbreak of Covid calls into question global structures, once again marking well-defined areas of influence. What could be the end of a sector, such as the trade fair sector, which sells "gatherings" instead represents a springboard for an even more dominant Vicenzaoro.
Focus
The "Normcore" or "Basic Evolved" concept offers everyday wearable jewellery, combining technology and craftsmanship. Apple contributes to the popularity of smart-watches with the I-Watch. Chromaverse, a color-rich universe, introduces vibrant jewellery with enamels, gems and new finishes. Titanium and alternative metals redefine design. Independent designers reflect preferences, emphasizing individual expression. Collections are now "deconstructed," with jewellery that tells unique stories tailored to personal tastes.
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Rihanna Chopard Collection
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In a timeless experience, where heritage meets identity, where identity meets evolution, where evolution meets the future, this is THE HERITAGE FOR TOMORROW
By Gianmaria Pitton
Texts by: Gianmaria Pitton (The goldsmithing art, The roots),
Veronica Molinari (The 50s and 60s),
Marta Benedetti (The 70s and 80s),
Maria Elena Bonacini (The 90s, The 2000s, 2010-20),
Paola De Luca Founder & Creative Director Trendvision Jewellery + Forecasting (Trends),
Alessandro Lancellotti (The historical context)
Photos: Colorfoto Artigiana (Francesco Dalle Pozza),
Archive Gennaro Borracino, Archivio Fiera di Vicenza,
Tonino Assirelli, “C'era una volta l'oro. L'arte degli orefici a Vicenza e nel Veneto dalle origini all'Ottocento” (Biblos Edizioni, 1986)
Franco Brunello, “Gli orefici di Vicenza nella storia” (A cura dell'Ente Fiera, Tipografia Editrice G. Rumor, 1971)
“I profeti di Giardino Salvi”, a cura di Dante Ferrari e Luigi Mistrorigo (Edito dall'Ente Fiera, Industria grafica A. Dal Molin & Figli, 1990)
“La cronaca diventa storia. Fiera di Vicenza 1948-1998” (Edito dall'Ente Fiera, 1998)
Periodical publications:
Il Giornale di Vicenza;Vicenza Economica. Notiziario economico della Camera di Commercio Industria e Agricoltura di Vicenza; Vicenza Esposizioni; Vicenza Oro International Magazine; VO+ Vicenzaoro Jewels & Luxury Magazine; Il Gazzettino
ARCHIVES AND LIBRARIES
Famiglia Breganze De Capnist, Il Giornale di Vicenza, Alessandro Lancellotti,
Biblioteca Bertoliana di Vicenza, Biblioteca della Camera di Commercio di Vicenza.
We thank for their collaboration
Isabella Bertozzo, Gennaro Borracino, Marino Capnist De Breganze, Catherine Chan General Manager Hong Kong Jewellery & Gems Manufacturers Association, Willy Della Valle,
Camera di Commercio di Vicenza, Biblioteca Bertoliana di Vicenza, Vogue Condè Nast
